Uluwatu Temple Layover, Bali: Cliff Beaches

The green-topped limestone cliffs of the Bukit peninsula at Uluwatu in Bali, dropping into lines of white surf rolling in from the Indian Ocean
Photo: CEphoto, Uwe Aranas · CC BY-SA 3.0 · source

Uluwatu Temple in Bali charges 60,000 rupiah to walk its clifftop, and two beaches under the same limestone, Padang Padang and Pantai Pandawa, cost 15,000 or nothing to reach.

The Kecak amphitheatre is stepped down the cliff below the temple

A hundred or so men sit in concentric rings and chant chak against each other in interlocking rhythm, and that is the entire score: no gamelan, no drums, nothing but voices and one lit candelabra while the Ramayana plays out in the middle. The theatre is built into the cliff face under the temple, it holds 1,200 on unreserved stone tiers, and the performance starts at six and runs about an hour with the sun going down behind it. A sunset-and-dance ticket covers the temple visit and the performance together.

A masked and crowned performer standing with raised hands at the centre of the Kecak circle at Uluwatu, ringed by dozens of seated chanters with their arms in the air
Photo: DavideGorla · CC BY 2.0 · source

The tiers fill from about five in the afternoon and the 1,200 places routinely go before the show starts, which is the practical reason to arrive with nothing to manage but yourself: seating is first come, first sat, the rows are stone steps without backs, and there is no aisle to park anything in.

The temple above is 60,000 rupiah for foreign adults and 40,000 for children, and sarongs and sashes are handed out free at the gate. The macaques on the clifftop path are the other thing to know about: they take sunglasses, hats and phones, and the handlers stationed along the path carry fruit to trade them back.

Padang Padang Beach is 120 steps down through the cliff

The cove is 110 metres of sand in Pecatu, walled in by overhanging limestone with jungle growing out of it, and the way down is about 120 steps through a cleft so narrow that two people pass sideways. That entrance is most of why people come. The booth at the top is 15,000 rupiah for adults, cash only, and the beach below is small enough that it feels full quickly.

The small sandy cove of Padang Padang Beach in Bali, hemmed in by overhanging limestone and jungle with a rock stack standing in the surf offshore
Photo: Alexey Komarov · CC BY 3.0 · source

One thing worth knowing before you set a map app on it: the official name is Labuan Sait Beach, after the road and the village, and plenty of signage uses that instead. Both searches land at the same car park on Jalan Labuan Sait, with the steps on the far side of the road bridge. A southern beaches tour strings this beach together with Pantai Pandawa and the evening performance in one run, which saves negotiating three separate cars.

Pantai Pandawa was cut straight down through a cliff

There was no road to this beach at all until one was carved through the limestone wall above it, and the cut is now the approach: a two-lane descent between sheer faces that opens onto white sand and flat turquoise water at the bottom. The beach’s name stands in outsized coloured letters on the terrace above it. Kayaks are rented along the water and the swimming is calmer here than anywhere else on this coast, because the reef takes the swell.

The road cut down through the limestone to Pantai Pandawa in Bali, with the beach's name spelled in large coloured letters on the terrace above the white sand
Photo: Herryz · CC BY-SA 4.0 · source

Cars come all the way down to beach level, which makes this the one stop on the Bukit that works without a flight of steps in it. Warungs line the terrace above the sand, and the beach stays busiest in the middle of the day, when the water is at its clearest and the tour buses come through.

Everyone leaves the cliff at the same time when the dance ends

Twelve hundred people walk out of one amphitheatre into one car park a little after seven, and the road off the peninsula is what it is. An hour back to I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport is the planning figure and not a safe minimum on a performance night: the Bukit roads feed into the Ngurah Rai bypass and then the Dewa Ruci junction at Simpang Siur, where the evening peak between five and seven can add most of another hour.

Trans Metro Dewata’s bus corridors do not come out this far, so the way back is a car however you arrived, and the drivers waiting in the car park know exactly what the road is about to do. Leaving four hours before an international departure is the honest arithmetic. For a shorter gap, the main Bali guide covers the stops nearer town, and Kuta’s beach is twenty minutes from the terminal rather than an hour.

Frequently asked questions

What should I do during a layover near Uluwatu Temple in Bali?

The temple itself is 60,000 rupiah for foreign adults and opens from seven in the morning until seven at night, and the Kecak performance in the cliffside amphitheatre below it starts at six and runs about an hour on a separate 150,000 rupiah ticket. Two beaches on the same stretch of coast fill the hours before that: Padang Padang, reached down about 120 steps through a split in the limestone for 15,000 rupiah, and Pantai Pandawa, where a road was cut straight down through a cliff face to reach the sand. Six to eight hours makes all four comfortable. The dance is the one to hold a ticket for, and dropping it turns this into a straightforward afternoon on the cliffs.

Is Uluwatu manageable with elderly parents or limited mobility?

Partly, and the split is clean. The temple's own clifftop path is paved and gently graded, and a car can drop you close to the entrance, so the headline view is reachable. The amphitheatre below it is the harder half: the seating is unreserved stone tiers stepping down the cliff, with no handrails and no reserved places, and the crowd arrives in one block before five. Padang Padang is out, roughly 120 steps down a narrow rock cleft with no alternative route. Pantai Pandawa is the one to pick instead, because the access road runs all the way down to beach level and cars park on the sand terrace.

Why can I not find Padang Padang Beach on the map?

Because its official name is different. Maps and road signs often give it as Labuan Sait Beach, after the village and the road it sits on in Pecatu, while every guide and every surfer calls it Padang Padang. Searching either will get you to the same car park on Jalan Labuan Sait; the beach is down the steps on the far side of the road bridge, not visible from where you are dropped. The entrance booth at the top of the stairs is 15,000 rupiah for adults and takes cash only.

How long does it take to get from Uluwatu back to the airport?

An hour is the number to plan on, and it is not a safe minimum on a performance night. The Bukit roads funnel into the Ngurah Rai bypass and then the Dewa Ruci junction at Simpang Siur, and the evening peak between five and seven can add close to another hour. With three hours wanted at I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport for an international departure, leaving the cliffs four hours before the flight is the honest figure. Trans Metro Dewata's bus network does not reach this part of the peninsula, so the return trip is a car whichever way you arrived.