Stockholm Arlanda Layover: Uppsala and Sigtuna

The Sky City block at Stockholm Arlanda Airport seen across a snow-edged apron, a long glass and steel building with the airport's slim control tower rising behind it under a clear winter sky
Photo: Bene Riobó · CC BY-SA 4.0 · source

Two places near Stockholm Arlanda Airport are worth a connection that is too short for the capital: Uppsala, twenty minutes north by train, where the tallest church in the Nordic countries is free to walk into, and Sigtuna, the oldest surviving town in Sweden, a bus ride west across the fields.

Uppsala Cathedral, 118.7 metres and free to enter

Uppsala is a university city about twenty minutes north of the airport by train, and the two dark spires over its rooftops belong to the tallest church in the Nordic countries. The cathedral was consecrated in 1435, has been the seat of the Swedish archbishop since 1273, and charges nothing at the door. It runs 8am to 6pm every day, with two exceptions each year when it closes at noon, on 30 April and 19 June.

Uppsala Cathedral above autumn treetops, twin dark grey spires on a tall red brick tower front with the long nave and a smaller spire running back behind it
Photo: Arild Vågen · CC BY-SA 3.0 · source

Inside, the two graves people come for sit at opposite ends of Swedish history. Gustav Vasa, the king who broke with Rome in the 1520s and founded the modern Swedish state, lies with his queens in what was the Lady Chapel. Carl Linnaeus, who worked out the system every plant and animal on earth is still named under, is buried in the nave, a few minutes’ walk from the university where he taught.

Trains leave from Arlanda Central, which sits under the Sky City block between Terminals 4 and 5, so there is no separate transfer to find. Tickets run roughly 120 to 210 kronor depending on which operator’s train you catch. There is also a bus, the 801, from outside Terminal 4: 40 minutes rather than 20, about 120 kronor, and the same ticket then works on Uppsala’s own buses once you arrive.

Stora gatan, the oldest main street in Sweden

Sigtuna was founded around 980, which makes it the oldest surviving town in the country, and Stora gatan still follows the line it was set out on then. What stands along it now is 18th- and 19th-century: low wooden houses in yellow, red and green, built as artisans’ workshops, with wrought-iron signs hanging out over a street barely wide enough for a car.

Stora gatan in Sigtuna, a narrow street of low wooden houses painted yellow, red and green with tiled roofs and wrought-iron shop signs hanging out over the pavement
Photo: Brorsson · CC BY-SA 3.0 · source

Three stone churches from the 1100s stand roofless in the middle of the town, St Olof, St Per and St Lars, left open to the sky when the Dominicans built Mariakyrkan down the road in the 13th century and the older parishes emptied. Mariakyrkan is the one that still has a roof, brick gothic and still in use. The ruins cost nothing and there is no gate on any of them.

Sigtuna also has more rune stones standing where they were raised than anywhere else in the country: a dozen or so inside the town, and well over a hundred across the surrounding district. Several are set right among the church ruins, which is the easiest place to see one without a map.

Getting here is the honest catch. A direct bus from the Sky City stop takes about 37 minutes, or bus 583 runs to Märsta station in around 15 minutes, every 10 minutes, with buses 570 and 575 covering the last leg. Reckon on the better part of an hour each way, which is why this is the stop to drop if the connection is closer to three hours than five.

Sky City, the block between Terminal 4 and Terminal 5

Sky City is the public concourse that joins Arlanda’s two biggest terminals, and it is where everything that isn’t a gate lives: restaurants with actual tables, shops, two hotels, a gym with a pool and a sauna, and the rail station in its basement. None of it is behind security, so it is reachable whether you have gone through yet or not.

The luggage lockers are here too, and in Terminals 2 and 5, all of them on the public side and all card-only. That placement is the real cost of a bag on a connection: retrieving one means a second pass through security and the walk back from Sky City to whichever far gate you are leaving from, which is the difference between Sigtuna fitting and not fitting.

If the connection turns out to be longer than it looked, the capital is reachable too: the Arlanda Express leaves from separate platforms under Terminal 5 and under Terminals 2 to 4, and runs to Stockholm Central in 18 minutes. The full Stockholm guide lays out what fits once you are there. Going the cheap way instead, on a commuter train or a bus out of Arlanda Central, means the airport’s own 157-kronor passage fee on top of the fare, which closes most of the gap.

Frequently asked questions

What should I do during a layover near Stockholm Arlanda Airport (ARN) in Stockholm?

With three to five hours, the two places worth leaving the building for both sit away from the capital. Uppsala is about twenty minutes north by train from the station in Sky City: the cathedral there is the tallest church in the Nordic countries at 118.7 metres, free to walk into, open 8am to 6pm daily, with Gustav Vasa and Carl Linnaeus both buried inside. Sigtuna, founded around 980 and the oldest surviving town in Sweden, is a bus ride west, with a street of wooden houses, three roofless 12th-century churches and rune stones still standing where they were raised. Sigtuna takes longer to reach than Uppsala and needs the fuller end of that time, so with three hours it is the one to drop.

Where can I leave a suitcase at Stockholm Arlanda Airport?

Lockers sit in Terminal 2, Terminal 5 and the Sky City block between Terminals 4 and 5, all of them on the public side before security, in a range of sizes including ones built for skis and golf bags. They take cards rather than cash, like everything else at this airport. That placement matters for planning: the lockers are outside the secure area, so using them means clearing security again afterwards, and the walk between the far terminals and Sky City is a few minutes in itself.

How much does it cost to leave Arlanda and come back?

The cheap route out is a commuter train or a bus, and the catch is Arlanda's own station fee: 157 kronor on top of the transit ticket for a single passage through the barriers. Uppsala by train runs roughly 120 to 210 kronor depending on the operator, and the UL bus 801 from outside Terminal 4 is around 120 kronor for a 40-minute ride, with the same ticket then valid on Uppsala's local buses. The fast train into Stockholm is 340 kronor for an adult, free for under-18s travelling alongside one, and that ticket can be bought before you land.

Is Uppsala Cathedral worth it on a short connection?

It is the single best return on time from this airport. Twenty minutes on the train each way, a ten-minute walk from Uppsala's station to the doors, nothing to pay and no ticket queue, inside a building that has been the seat of the Swedish church since 1273. Allow about two and a half hours door to door for a proper look. The one thing to check is the calendar: the cathedral shuts at noon on 30 April and 19 June, and services and concerts close off parts of it at other times.